The brake master cylinder requires removal with a process that starts with inspecting and adjusting the
Brake Booster push rod before replacement. Fasten the brake tube way sub-assembly with 2 nuts to the brake booster assembly while torquing them to 13 Nm (132 kgf-cm, 10 ft-lbf). Proper handling of the master cylinder must be maintained since impacts could occur when placing it with the piston positioned upward to prevent piston escape. A clean cloth should be used to remove foreign matter from the piston before applying an even layer of lithium soap base glycol grease which must cover the entire piston circumference. Use a union nut wrench (10 mm) to connect the
Brake Lines to the master cylinder assembly while torquing this way (15 Nm without wrench and 14 Nm with wrench) when maintaining a torque wrench fulcrum length of 250 mm (9.84 in.) which stays parallel to the nut. After connecting the clamp you should join the connector to the brake master cylinder reservoir assembly with a clip. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid followed by bleeding the clutch line for C59 and E351 then bleeding the brake master cylinder before bleeding the brake line and finally bleeding the brake actuator with VSC. Brake fluid leaks must be evaluated while checking the fluid level in the reservoir. Both 2ZR-FE and 2AZ-FE engine installations require the air cleaner case and cap sub-assembly followed by installing the No. 2 then No. 1 cylinder head covers based on engine type. Install the suspension tower damper assembly together with the front strut bar then install the outer cowl top panel using 12 bolts torqued to 8.8 Nm (90 kgf-cm, 78 in-lbf). After that, engage the clamp before bending the water guard plate RH to fit inside the clamp. After finishing install the windshield
Wiper Motor and link assembly and both cowl top ventilator louvers as well as hood to cowl top seal and front wiper arm and blade assemblies and their associated head caps.